Religious Rambles from Tel Aviv

I arrived in Tel Aviv this morning after almost two weeks in the old city of Jerusalem. The juxtoposition with striking: while Jerusalem is conservative and austere, Tel Aviv sums up everything I like about Mediterranean costal cities: people holding hands, walking around in almost no clothing while drinking beer in the afternoon and kissing with no hesitance. Quite the difference, indeed. I'll go as far to say it was a relief; after having to spend the last three weeks in religiously sensitive places (especially those who are in the midst of various holidays), I finally felt like I could breathe when I arrived here, and not worry about having to offend anyone. While it was interesting and eye-opening to spend so much time in a place like Jerusalem, I realized that it was something that I couldn't sustain. Most people live their lives in a completely different way there than I see mine unfolding: constantly attuned to what they feel god wants of them, and tweaking the aspects of daily life accordingly. I just can't live that way. While I understand the history involved, plus the fact that this lifestyle garners 'meaning', it presents you with the 'choices' you will be making from then on out, including the strict laws by which you much dress. Yes, a place like Tel Aviv that allows drugs, sex and "moral impurity" can become excessive and lead to terrible lives for some. Anyway, all of this comes back to the point I tried to make earlier: that Jerusalem was a place I could observe and analyze, but never truly become absorbed in. Good note to make for the future, I suppose. I would upload pictures, but this computer disallows such behavoir. Of course :) Tomorrow I'm off to a farm just south of the city, which I'm really looking forward too. I get no exercise on this adventure (besides the periodical days of shleping around my backpack aka life), so it'll be nice to spend copious hours outside tending to the crops, or what have you. And now I'm off, to drink or read or something away from this machine.

sallam

MEND + more Israel

So I've been spending a lot of my time over the past week and a half here in Jerusalem working at a Palestinian nonviolence NGO called MEND (Middle East Nonviolence and Democracy). Mainly they've been having me do translations from Arabic-English and vice-versa (although the latter is MUCH more difficult). It's a great organization that works to offer nonviolent outlets for Palestinian youth in the West Bank (as the Gaza offices have closed since the takeover by Hamas last year). It's been a really interesting experience to take off my tourist hat and put on volunteer, particularly for a cause that I feel so strongly for. The people working come from literally all around the world (Britain, Japan, Switzerland, and the Palestinian territories themselves). It's also interesting to hear the other side of the story, since obviously the conflict gets a small amount of "framing" before it is read and discussed in America. So much is going around me that it's hard to digest it all- I'm sure I'll have more profound things to say once I'm outside this situation and able to look back on it from a different viewpoint. Tuesday I head to a small village outside of Tel Aviv, where I'll be working on a date + goat farm owned by a Jewish family, which should also be an interesting and perspective-changing experience. Can't wait to ask about the 1948 war or what they think of Zionism and the prospects for peace :) It's then off to Turkey after that, which will be like falling into a warm bath after working outside all day- meeting up with the mother who will no doubt want to shower me with the spoils of Istanbul and beyond. Can't wait. I also can't believe the trip is about to enter it's final chapter. I feel I've been here for half a year, but it's also gone by so fast. Soon enough I'll be back at the house in California, asking myself how the hell did it all happen. It's a great thing to know that you're on a trip of a lifetime, particularly while it's happening. Hope all those reading this are well. And remember: if orthodox Jews can pray next to the most devout of Muslims on a daily basis, then even something as dismal as the economy and perpetual war doesn't seem as bad in the long run. What I'm trying to say is keep your heads up everyone, particularly if you've got some bad stock right now:

ma'a sallama (go with peace!)
-matt







David street, a main avenue, at night


Jewish cemetery at the spot where Judgment day supposedly will occur


The location of Jesus seeing his mother on the way to crucifixion


Shawarma :)


This one I had to take subliminally, but guys with guns this size are everywhere.


MEND offices, near Bait Hanina


Pietro and Florence, two uppity Brits :)


Larissa, Hiba and Ingrid


Don't work too hard there, 'Issa.

Jordan and Israel

The wall of the old city- Jerusalem

Zion's gate, which was battered by gunfire during the 1948 war, when the Israelis were trying to break through the gates being held by the Jordanians.

You know you're in the Armenian quarter when...

The Dome of the rock

gorgeous...

Jewish quarter



The western wall in front, Jeudaism's holiest place, with the dome of the rock behind, Islam's #3



Church of the Holy Sepulchre, supposedly where Jesus was crucified and buried

The Allenby (or King Heussein depending on what side you're on) bridge, connecting Jordan and Israel

Amman- 8,500 year old statues

The entrance to Jordan from Eilat, a small Israeli coastal town at the Red Sea

The Siq- entrance to Petra

...

Roman amphitheatre

More Petra

Jordanian cowboy

This Saudi man wanted to take my picture, so I got one of him and his wife in return